In The Ivory Position, Manu Pillai shares the unique history of Travancore. This Indian government, located in southern Kerala, follows a regal tradition. Travancore, loyal to the British Raj, was modern compared to the old houses that once fought for this region of south-western India. It lies between the Arabian Sea and the Western Ghats.
But a ruthless leader and clever management over the years ensured its survival, along with its political and social capital. As Kerala embraced democracy, women in Travancore were vital to its future. In this selection from the book, Pillai digs into the history of Kerala’s bizarre history of matriliny.
Some anthropologists admire Kerala's matrilineal system. They see it as a link to a past that once thrived globally. Others argue it arose from unique circumstances that replaced patriarchy at a specific time. There are, be that as it may, two sees on this that have been passed down inside the locale.
One is legendary and based on a Malayalam treatise called Keralolpathi, as well as and a Sanskrit work called the Kerala Mahatmyam. These refer to the creation of Kerala by the great saint Parasurama. He is said to have thrown his battle-axe from Gokarna to Cape Comorin. This act brought all the land between the two points up from the ocean.
He is said to have given this unused place to the Brahmins. Then, he called in divine beings, firmament minstrels, and evil spirit ladies to entertain these men. The Nairs, a key matrilineal caste, were related to these fairies and their Brahmin rulers. They traced their lineage through the maternal line. This form was expelled very suitably by William Logan in his Malabar Manual as “a farrago of incredible nonsense.
Where Women Wove the Family Threads?
Ask everyone what Kerala does special, and they will mention clear bees, Kathakali, and coconut oil. But something is deep that is often not taken into account by everyone. It’s in the way homes are run. In many parts of India, the father’s word is final.
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But here in Kerala? Some families have always looked to the women. Not just for meals or rituals—but for leadership, property, and identity. It’s not loud or in-your-face. But it’s real—and it’s been part of Kerala’s social DNA for generations.
So, What’s Matriliny Anyway?
Let’s not confuse terms here. Matriliny isn’t matriarchy. It’s about the strong position and equality of women. So if you were a Nair child in Kerala in the early 1900s, then your uncle, your mother's brother, was your guardian. And not your father. Assets? Passed to the sister’s son. It may sound odd now, but for centuries, this was the norm in many communities.
Inside the Tharavadu: More Than Just a House
The Tharavadu wasn’t a home. It was an entire world. Cousins, elderly, children, and in-laws—all under one roof. Many generations eat from the same kitchen, divide the work, and share memories in the open courtyard. No private bedrooms, no nuclear setups.
At the helm? Often, an older woman. She wasn’t a dictator, but her word carried weight. She knew everyone’s birthdays, secrets, and maybe even bank passcodes. It was messy, warm, and sometimes chaotic—but that’s what made it work.
Marriage, Kerala-Style
In most of India, weddings mean a woman moves into her husband’s place. But in Kerala’s matrilineal families? The men packed their bags. The husband didn’t always stay full-time. He’d come, go, maybe stay over—but the woman remained rooted in her family home.
Her children? Carried her lineage, not his. While the old sambandham marriage model is long gone, its spirit lingers in subtle ways—from how names are passed down to who sits where at the dining table.
Modern Homes, Old Values
Sure, today’s Malayali families live in apartments, not ancestral mansions. Kids move abroad. Rents, EMIs, Google Calendar, and itineraries are shared by the couples. But still you will find that the decision-maker is not always a man in the house.
Ask who is planning the marriage, organizing the Puja, or managing the WhatsApp group in the family. The answer would most probably be a woman of the house. The tradition does not always scream. It is often silent.
Education Wasn’t a Fight; It Was Expected?
Kerala has one of the best female literacy rates in India. Why? You could thank the matrilineal mindset. In families where daughters inherited land, there was no point in keeping them uneducated. Women were required to read documents, manage property, and guide the next generation.
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Therefore, schooling was not a luxury—it was a need. And that wave effect continues even today. Young Malayali women are teachers, doctors, and startup founders—and they are not by breaking obstacles, but often because they were never told that they could not.
Still Leading the Celebrations
Come Onam or Vishu, who’s running the show? Not the men. From arranging the pookalam (flower carpet) to preparing the feast and organizing temple rituals, women take charge. The biggest example? It is Attukal Pongala. It’s not just a festival. It’s a massive expression of shared faith, labor, and womanhood. No one hands them the mic. They don’t need it. They’ve had the script all along.
What Happens When the Men Leave for the Gulf?
There has been a connection between Kerala and the Gulf in economic terms. While men flew to Qatar, the UAE, and Oman, the women stayed behind and ran the show. They didn’t just raise the kids.
They managed land deals, handled builders, fought court cases, and kept the family afloat. These women became accidental CEOs of their households. And the interesting part? Many did it while holding down jobs and looking after aging parents.
It Wasn’t Always Rosy
Of course, not everything about matriliny was perfect. Some men felt alienated. Joint families fought over land. Inheritance rules caused confusion when legal reforms kicked in.
And let’s not forget—not all women benefitted equally. Some still had to battle for basic respect. But for many, this system offered a head start—a cultural foundation where women were never treated as property but as people with property.
Still Hanging Around in Surprising Ways
Matriliny may have faded, but its fingerprints remain. A young couple in Kochi might not think twice about who lives closer to their parents—but they’ll still check with “Amma” before finalizing anything. Even modern women who work in tech or medicine will often run the emotional and cultural life of the family. And daughters, not sons, still host many of the key ceremonies.
Final Thoughts
Kerala’s matrilineal past isn’t just something for history books. It shaped mindsets, not just inheritance laws. It gave generations of girls the idea that they mattered by default. It was already there.
That they could lead without being labeled “bossy. And today, as the world rethinks gender roles, Kerala’s quiet tradition of female-centered households feels not outdated but ahead of its time.
